Thursday, May 6, 2010

Kebaya


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Etymology

Kebaya is inspired from Arab region clothing; the Arabic word abaya means clothing.

History magellan gps devices

The earliest form of Kebaya originates in the court of the Javanese Majapahit Kingdom as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, torso wrap of the aristocratic women to be more modest and acceptable to the newly adopted Islam religion. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords. pioneer avic s1

The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was noted by the Portuguese when they landed in Indonesia. Kebaya is associated with a type of blouse worn by Indonesian women in 15th or 16th century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were considered as a sacred clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and minor nobility , in an era when peasant men and many women walked publicly bare-chested. wireless data logger

Slowly it naturally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes over the torso wrap kemben, the kain (and unstitched wrap fabric several metres long erroneously termed 'sarong in English (a sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is stitched to form a tube, like a Western dress) After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments have become highly localised expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring traditions.

The earliest photographic evidence of the kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Eurasian styles.

Costume Components

The quintessential kebaya is the Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. It consists of the blouse (kebaya) of cotton , silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by a central brooch where the flaps of the blouse meet.

The blouse is commonly semi-transparent and worn over the torso wrap or kemben. The skirt or kain is an unstitched fabric wrap around three metres long. The term sarong in English is erroneous, the sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually stitched together to form a tube, like a Western dress- the kain is unstitched, requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in place with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then held with a belt (sabuk or ikat pinggang), which may hold a decorative pocket.

Varieties

There are two main varieties. The blouse, known as baju kebaya may be of two main form: the semi-transparent straighter cut blouse of the Java, Bali and the more tightly tailored Sunda kebaya and the more Islamic compatible, plainer baju kurung is a loose-fitting, knee-length long-sleeved blouse worn in the more adherent Muslim areas- including former Kingdom of Johor-Riau (now Malaysia), Sumatra and parts of coastal Java.

In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from plain stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis embroidered silk with gold thread. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis- an elaborate gold-thread embroidered ikat with small mica discs. Sumatera, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.

During Dutch colonization of the island, European women began wearing the less restrictive and cooler kebaya as a formal or social dress. European women wore shorter sleeve and total length cotton in prints.

The day kebaya of the Eurasians was of white cotton trimmed with European handmade lace- commonly from Bruges or Holland and black silk for evening wear.

In the Malacca region, a different variety of kebaya is called "nyonya kebaya" worn by those of Chinese ancestry: the Peranakan people. The Nyonya kebaya is different in its' famously intricately hand-beaded shoes (kasut manek) and use of kain with Chinese motive batik or imported printed or hand-painted Chinese silks.

Political Significance

The only woman present during Indonesia's Proclamation of Independence, Dutch-educated activist SK Trimurti- wore kebaya cementing it as the female dress of Nationalism.

In Japanese internment camps during the Second World War, Indonesian female prisoners refused to wear the Western dress allocated them and instead wore kebaya as a display of Nationalist and racial solidarity separate from fellow Chinese, Europeans and Eurasian inmates.

The 21st of April is celebrated in Indonesia as National Kartini Day where Raden Ayu Kartini, the female suffragist and education advocate is remembered by schoolgirls wearing traditional dress according to their region. In Java, Bali and Sunda it is the kebaya.

Cultural rivalry between Malaysian and Indonesia has given rise to media-based spats over the true ownership of the 'kebaya.

Former President Megawati Sukarnoputri is a public champion of kebaya and wears fine red kebaya whenever possible in public forums and 2009 Presidential election debates.

The Suharto-era bureaucrat wives' social organisation Dharma Wanita wears a uniform of gold kebaya, with a red sash (selendang) and stamped batik pattern on the kain unique to Dharma Wanita. The late Indonesian first lady and minor aristocrat Tien Suharto was also a prominent advocate of the kebaya.

Modern Innovations

Apart from traditional kebaya, fashion designers are looking into ways of modifying the design and making kebaya a more fashionable outfit. Casual designed kebaya can even be worn with jeans or skirts. For weddings or formal events, many designers are exploring other types of fine fabrics like laces to create a bridal kebaya.

Modern-day kebaya now incorporate modern Western tailoring innovations such as clasps, zippers and buttons- zippers being a much appreciated addition for ladies' requiring the bathroom, without requiring being literally unwrapped by a helper- to the extent the true kain is near unanimously rejected.

Other modern innovations have included the blouse baju kebaya worn without the restrictive kemben, and eve the kebaya blouse worn with slacks or made of the fabric usually for the kain panjang.

Modern kebaya blouses are also zippered at the back- for practicality and for larger frame women's busts not to literally burst out the front of their blouse.

Modern Usage

The "Singapore Girl" uniform worn by Singapore Airlines stewardesses is a rather more tight-fitting interpretation of the traditional costume by French haute couture designer Pierre Balmain in 1972, considered provocative and exploitative by some[who?] at the time.

The female uniform of Garuda Indonesia and Malaysia Airlines flight attendants are more authentic modern interpretations.[citation needed]

Notable designers

Mr Raden Mas Marga Alam- famous Javanese designer and aristocrat from the house of Paku Alam keenly sought by Indonesia's socialites and wealthy.

Raden Sirait: the designer of the sarung and kebaya for the Putri Indonesia participants.

Anne Avantie.

Alin Anuar: Creative Director of the famous kebaya label Chantiq Skaly.

Gallery

R.A. Kartini and her husband in 19th century

A modern kebaya worn by a Singapore Airline Flight Attendant

Modern kebaya for woman (left) and child (right).

An elderly Sundanese woman wearing kebaya, kain batik and batik headcloth, West Java.

See also

Indonesia portal

Culture of Indonesia

Culture of Singapore

Culture of Malaysia

References

^ a b Jill Forshee, Culture and customs of Indonesia, Greenwood Publishing Group: 2006: ISBN 0313333394: 237 pages

^ Denys Lombard (1990) (in French). Le carrefour javanais: Essai dhistoire globale (Civilisations et socits). cole des hautes tudes en sciences sociales. ISBN 2713209498. 

^ Maenmas Chavalit, Maneepin Phromsuthirak: Costumes in ASEAN: ASEAN Committee on Culture and Information: 2000: ISBN 9747102838: 293 pages

^ S A. Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich, Carla Jones: Re-orienting fashion: the globalization of Asian dress Berg Publishers: 2003: ISBN 1859735398, 9781859735398, 283 pages pp 206-207

^ Cattoni Reading The Kebaya paper was presented to the 15th Biennial Conference of the Asian Studies Association of Australia in Canberra 29 June-2 July 2004.

^ Michael Hitchock Indonesian Textiles: Harper Collins 1991

^ Maenmas Chavalit, Maneepin Phromsuthirak: Costumes in ASEAN: ASEAN Committee on Culture and Information: 2000: ISBN 9747102838: 293 pages

^ Panular, P. B. R. Carey, The British in Java, 1811-1816: a Javanese account : a text edition, English synopsis and commentary on British Library Additional Manuscript 12330 (Babad Bdhah ing Ngayogyakarta), British Academy by Oxford University Press: 1992, ISBN 0197260624: 611 pages

^ John Pemberton, On the subject of "Java"', Cornell University Press: 1994, ISBN 0801499631: 333 pages

^ Inger Mcabe Elliott Batik: Fabled Cloth of Java, Hong Kong Periplus: 2004

^ Mattiebelle Gittinger, To Speak with Cloth:Studies in Indonesian textiles University of California: 1989

^ Cattoni Reading The Kebaya paper was presented to the 15th Biennial Conference of the Asian Studies Association of Australia in Canberra 29 June-2 July 2004: 8

^ http://lifestyle.okezone.com/read/2008/12/16/194/174166/194/marga-alam-lelaki-dalam-bisnis-kebaya

External links

Indonesian Textiles

Reading The Kebaya

- Butik Hana- commercial Indonesian site with many interesting quality images.

v  d  e

Clothing

Materials

Cotton  Fur  Leather  Linen  Nylon  Polyester  Rayon  Silk  Spandex  Wool

Tops

Blouse  Crop top  Dress shirt  Halterneck  Henley shirt  Hoodie  Jersey  Guernsey (clothing)  Polo shirt  Shirt  Sleeveless shirt  Sweater  T-shirt  Tube top  Turtleneck

Trousers or pants

Bell-bottoms  Bermuda shorts  Bondage pants  Boxer shorts  Capri pants  Cargo pants  Culottes  Cycling shorts  Dress pants  Jeans  Jodhpurs  Overall  Parachute pants  Phat pants   Shorts  Sweatpants  Windpants

Skirts

A-line skirt  Ballerina skirt  Fustanella  Hobble skirt  Jean skirt  Job skirt  Leather skirt  Kilt  Men's skirts  Microskirt  Miniskirt  Pencil skirt  Poodle skirt  Prairie skirt  Rah-rah skirt  Sarong  Skort  Slip  Train  Wrap

Dresses

Ball gown  Cocktail dress  Evening gown  Gown  Jumper dress  Little black dress  Petticoat  Sari  Sundress  Tea gown  Wedding dress

Suits and uniforms

Academic dress  Afrocentric suit  Black tie  Buddhist monastic robe  Clerical clothing  Court dress  Gymslip  Jumpsuit  Lab coat  Mao suit  Morning dress  Pantsuit  Red Sea rig  Scrubs  Stroller  Tangzhuang  Tuxedo  White tie

Outerwear

Abaya  Academic gown  Anorak  Apron  Blazer  Cloak  Coat  Duffle coat  Frock coat  Jacket  Greatcoat  Hoodie  Opera coat  Overcoat  Pea coat  Poncho  Raincoat  Redingote  Robe  Shawl  Shrug  Ski suit  Sleeved blanket  Top coat  Trench coat  Vest  Waistcoat  Windbreaker

Underwear

Boxer briefs  Boxer shorts  Brassiere  Briefs  Compression shorts  Corselet  Corset  Knickers  Lingerie  Long underwear  Men's undergarments  Panties  Teddy  Trunks  Undershirt

Accessories

Belly chain  Belt  Bow tie  Chaps  Coin purse  Earring  Gaiters  Gloves  Handbag  Leg warmer  Leggings  Necklace  Necktie  Scarf  Stocking  Sunglasses  Suspenders  Tights

Footwear

Athletic shoe  Boot  Dress shoe  Flip-flops  Hosiery  Pump  Sandal  Shoe  Slipper  Sock

Headwear

Balaclava  Cap  Fascinator  Gaung Paung  Hat  Headband  Helmet  Hijab  Hood  Kerchief  Mantilla  Niqb  Sombrero  Turban  Ushanka  Veil

Nightwear

Babydoll  Blanket sleeper  Negligee  Nightcap  Nightgown  Nightshirt  Peignoir  Pajamas

Swimwear

Bikini  Swim diaper  Wetsuit

Clothing parts

Back closure  Buckle  Button  Buttonhole  Collar  Cuff  Elastic  Fly  Hemline  Hook-and-eye  Lapel  Neckline  Pocket  Shoulder pad  Shoulder strap  Sleeve  Snap  Strap  Velcro  Waistline  Zipper

National costume

Abaya  Aboyne dress  o b ba  o di  o t thn  Baro't saya  Barong Tagalog  Bunad  jbningurinn  Cheongsam  Dashiki  Deel  Dhoti  Dirndl  Djellaba  Gkti  Gho & Kira  Han Chinese clothing  Hanbok  Jellabiya  Jilbb  Kebaya  Kente cloth  Kilt  Kimono  Lederhosen  Sampot  Sarafan  Sari  Sarong  Scottish dress

Historical garments

Banyan  Bedgown  Bodice  Braccae  Breeches  Breeching  Brunswick  Chemise  Chiton  Chlamys  Doublet  Exomis  Farthingale  Frock  Himation  Hose  Houppelande  Jerkin  Justacorps  Palla  Peplos  Polonaise  Smock-frock  Stola  Toga  Tunic

History and surveys

Africa  Ancient Greece  Ancient Rome  Ancient world  Anglo-Saxon  Byzantine  Clothing terminology  Dress code  Early Medieval Europe  Formal wear  Han Chinese clothing  History of clothing and textiles  History of Western fashion series (1100s-2000s)  Sumptuary law  Timeline of clothing and textiles technology  Undergarments  Vietnam  Women wearing pants

See also

Adaptive clothing  Adult diaper  Bathrobe  Costume  Fashion  Ironing  Laundry  Locking clothing  Reversible garment

Categories: Indonesian clothingHidden categories: All articles with specifically-marked weasel-worded phrases | Articles with specifically-marked weasel-worded phrases from September 2009 | All articles with unsourced statements | Articles with unsourced statements from July 2009

Jennifer Meyer


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en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jennifer_Meyer)

2 children

Children dunhill lighters

Ruby Sweetheart Maguire ronson lighter

(b. 2006) candle lighter

Otis Tobias Maguire

(b. 2009)

Website

http://www.jennifermeyerjewelry.com

Jennifer Meyer Maguire (born 1977) is an American jewelry designer who first rose to prominence when her signature piece, an 18-karat gold charm in the shape of a leaf, was worn by Jennifer Aniston in the 2006 film The Break-Up.

Contents

1 Early life

2 Jennifer Meyer Jewelry

3 Personal life

4 References

5 External links

//

Early life

Meyer is the daughter of Ronald Meyer, President and COO of Universal Studios, and his first wife, Ellen. Her stepfather, from her mother's re-marriage, is Rabbi David Baron (head of the Temple Shalom for the Arts), and her stepmother, from her father's re-marriage, is Kelly Chapman. She got her start in jewelry making alongside her grandmother, Edith Meyer, who taught her the basics of making enamel jewelry when she was just six years old.

As a young adult, Meyer studied Psychology at Syracuse University, then went to work for several fashion houses in the public relations departments, first for Giorgio Armani and later for Ralph Lauren. She also worked for Glamour Magazine as an editor.

Jennifer Meyer Jewelry

Meyer returned to her jewelry making roots in 2004 when, frustrated by a search for a leaf charm for a necklace, she decided to make her own. After taking several jewelry making classes and consulting with other jewelers, Meyer designed her trademark leaf-shaped 18-karat gold charm, which to her represents "turn[ing] over a new leaf". Though Meyer has extensive Hollywood connectionser father is Universal Studios President Ron Meyer; her husband is actor Tobey Maguire--her jewelry made its national debut when a stylist picked out one of Meyer's leaf pendants for Jennifer Aniston to wear in The Break-Up. The exposure led to Meyer founding her own company, Jennifer Meyer Jewelry, and her line of rings, charms, pendants, and necklaces is distributed through such luxury stores as Barneys New York, Roseark in Los Angeles, California, and Maxfield in Beverly Hills, California.

Meyer's customers include public figures such as Jennifer Aniston, Courteney Cox, Lindsay Lohan, Kate Hudson, Nicole Kidman, Kirsten Dunst, Mara Wilson, Julia Roberts, Mischa Barton, Lara Flynn Boyle, Ali Larter, Rachel Blanchard, Gabrielle Anwar, Bonnie Hunt, Katie Holmes, Ashley Olsen, Jennifer Garner, Jennie Garth, and Demi Moore, and she was named "2007 Jeweler of the Year" in the Us Magazine "Hot Hollywood Style" issue. Her heart-shaped locket adorns the neck of Kirsten Dunst's character Mary Jane Watson as a gift from her boyfriend Peter Parker (Tobey Maguire) in Spider-Man 3.

Meyer has begun adding rubies to her jewelry collection in honor of her daughter, Ruby Sweetheart Maguire, born November 10, 2006. She told Us Magazine that she now wears a ruby every day to celebrate her daughter's life.

Personal life

Meyer met Tobey Maguire in 2003 while Maguire was shooting the movie Seabiscuit at Universal Studios, and became engaged in April 2006. Their daughter Ruby Sweetheart Maguire was born November 10, 2006. Ruby's middle name comes from a childhood nickname of Meyer's given to her by her grandmother, who died a few months before Ruby's birth. Meyer married her long-time boyfriend, actor Tobey Maguire, on September 3, 2007, in Kona, Hawaii. Their second child, son Otis Tobias Maguire was born on May 8, 2009.

Meyer is Jewish and occasionally wears a Kabbalah bracelet placed on her "as a protection" by a friend of hers.

Meyer and Maguire are both Los Angeles Lakers fans and can frequently be seen courtside at Lakers home games.

References

^ Banderas ponders 'Zorro' sequel - Entertainment News, Army Archerd, Media - Variety

^ a b c d Jennifer Meyer Sparkles, published July 12, 2006; retrieved May 1, 2007.

^ Sunshine Girl, published Fall 2006; retrieved May 1, 2007.

^ a b "The Hot Hollywood Style Special", publication date May 7, 2007.

^ The Secrets of Spider-Man 3, Premiere Magazine, January/February 2007 issue, retrieved May 1, 2007.

^ Tobey Maguire, Jennifer Meyer Have A Girl, People Magazine, published November 11, 2006; retrieved May 1, 2007

^ Tobey Maguire, Jennifer Meyer Have A Girl, People Magazine, published November 11, 2006; retrieved May 1, 2007

^ Tobey Maguire Marries Jennifer Meyer in Hawaii

External links

Jennifer Meyer Jewelry official site

Categories: 1977 births | American jewelry designers | Living people | American Jews | Syracuse University alumniHidden categories: Articles with hCards